Our 2010 Fall Bulb Sale runs from August 1 to October 4 - order now to get the best-performing Spring flowering bulbs for the Dallas area! New, convenient pick-up options offered this year!

Gardeners in the South have a unique dilemma when it comes to planting tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs. Unlike the gardens of our Northern friends, most of the popular spring flowers will not 'naturalize' - or return year after year - for us, as they require a longer chilling time in the ground. So, we've compiled a list of tried-and-true types which have proven to do well in Southern gardens and will come back for many years. These are called "Heritage" or "Heirloom" bulbs for the south.

Of course, North Texas gardeners are free to plant any type of bulb in their landscape but should be prepared for the more delicate types to perform as annuals.

• Daffodils: Avalanche, Carlton, Golden Dawn, Grand Primo, Ice Follies, Quail, Tahiti, Thalia
• Hyacinthoids: Spanish Bluebells
• Tulips: Most 'Species' types, including clusiana - Lady Jane, kaufmania - Shakespeare
• Grape Hyacinths/Muscari - armeniacum
• Leucojum aestivum ("Snowflake")
• Dutch Iris: Blue Magic

Q. When should spring-flowering bulbs be planted?
A. Heritage/Heirloom bulbs do not require chilling. These should be planted after first hard freeze (Dec 1 - Jan 1).

Q. How can you judge the quality of bulbs?
A. In general, they should be heavy and solid. A soft bulb may indicate internal rot. They should be free of bruises and cuts - these are ready sites for disease and insect invasion. Inspect the bulbs closely for signs of disease or insects. You will avoid many problems by planting clean, high-quality bulbs.

Q. How much light do spring-flowering bulbs require?
A. Most spring-flowering bulbs do best in full sun or filtered light. Inadequate light tends to reduce the size or number of flowers and can even prevent flowering in some cases. Most spring-flowering bulbs lose their foliage by late spring or early summer, and therefore can often be grown successfully under deciduous trees. (By the time the trees leaf out, foliage on the bulbs is declining.) Light shade and cooler temperatures can prolong the length of time the plant is in flower and reduce fading.

Q. What about soil quality?
A. Most authorities recommend sandy loams for bulbs, but you also can find many examples of bulbs thriving in everything from pure sand to clay. The key to success as far as the soil is concerned is drainage. Most bulbs are highly intolerant of poor drainage. In the landscape, drainage can be improved by adding various soil amendments, installing drain lines or growing in raised beds.

Q. How deep should bulbs be planted?
A. It depends on the size of the bulb and the soil type (heavy or light). As a general rule, planting depth (from top of bulb to soil surface) should be 2 to 3 times the greatest diameter. Bulbs planted too deep may not be able to push through the soil. Planted too shallow, they are more susceptible to moisture stress.

Q. What is the proper spacing for spring-flowering bulbs?
A. It will vary according to the size and vigor of the bulb as well as the desired landscape effect. Tiny bulbs like grape hyacinth are planted about 3 inches apart. Large bulbs like daffodil might be planted 6 to 12 inches apart. The closer together that bulbs are planted, the sooner they will need to be dug and divided. On the other hand, if spaced too far apart, the landscape effect is spotty and less attractive. Plant in groups, not a straight line, for best design and a more natural look.

Q. When do spring-flowering bulbs bloom?
A. "Spring" is not a precise time, and may actually extend over a period of weeks and varying somewhat from year to year and location to location. Early-, mid- and late-spring are sometimes used to more closely define the bloom time. Depending on the species, variety and micro-climate, blooming may occur from February to May.

Q. When can the foliage of spring-flowering bulbs be removed?
A. Allow the foliage to remain until it withers and dies naturally (late spring to early summer). The longer the foliage remains, the longer the plant can photosynthesize and build up its food reserves for subsequent re-flowering. Premature removal can severely weaken a bulb, resulting in poor flowering and/or death!

Q. When Is the best time to dig and divide spring-flowering bulbs?
A. Heritage/Heirloom bulbs do not require digging as a rule. They should continue to naturalize (return year after year).

Heritage/Heirloom bulbs do not require chilling.

Paperwhites, Amarillas, Dutch Iris, Daffodils/Narcissus and Grape Hyacinths can be forced indorrs without chilling. 

• Lasagna Bulb-Planting Technique