Generally speaking, you should water deeply and infrequently. The equivalent of one inch of water once a week is a good general rule. (When an empty tuna can collects one inch of water from your sprinkler system, for example, you've given that area the necessary inch.) Avoid overwatering; it is a waste of one of our most precious resources.

Extremes of temperature and precipitation may necessitate watering more or less often, of course. The "finger test" is always appropriate. (If your finger finds that the soil is dry to the depth of an inch, it is time to water.)

Often our heavy clay soils or the grading of lawns and beds allow water to run off before it has soaked into the soil. Use intermittent watering techniques when this is the case, in an effort to conserve water and keep utility bills lower. Water an area to the point of run-off, then water some other area before returning to the first area to water again. Not only is run-off a waste of water; it may waste fertilizers, mulch and other important soil components by carrying them away.

There are many available lists containing information about Texas natives, as well as non-native plants that are especially well-adapted to our growing conditions.

As a starting point, check out the Texas Superstars^TM), a selection of trees, shrubs and bedding plants that have come through rigorous university testing with flying colors.

If you are interested in roses that do well in our soils and climatic conditions, check out the information on EarthKind Roses ^TM.

There are a number of information sheets prepared for Collin County residents by Texas Cooperative Extension. Visit the Extension Office to obtain handouts on the following topics.

Annuals

Perennials

Landscape plants

Trees

Vegetables

Herbs

Fruit, nut and berry cultivars

Vines

Remember to select and place plants based on their projected height and width at maturity. Check out our Links page, where you will find still more avenues to plant information.

Organic matter is vital to the fertility of any soil. For the clay soils that dominate this part of Texas, that is particularly true. The addition of generous quantities of amendments will improve the aeration and drainage of clay soil. Where soils have been scraped and compacted by construction equipment, experts suggest tilling organic materials evenly into the top six inches of soil if possible. Purchase good-quality compost, or learn to produce compost yourself. Peat moss, rotted manures, finely shredded bark and expanded shale can all help improve the texture of your soil. Do not add materials that are inadequately decomposed (e.g., fresh manures, sawdust, pecan hulls and fresh grass clippings). They will draw nitrogen from your plants.

Nitrogen is the element most often in short supply in Collin County soils. We encourage you to submit one or more samples of your soil for testing, so that you can learn specifically what your soil needs for plants to thrive. You can get more information about soil testing here, or visit the Collin County Extension Office.

When purchasing inorganic fertilizers, be mindful of the analysis numbers on the packaging. The first number of the three percentages on a fertilizer's label represents nitrogen. As a general rule, you will want to choose fertilizers with a high nitrogen ratio. It's also wise to choose fertilizers that offer at least part of the nutrients in slow-release form.

Finally, remember that the addition of organic amendments will go a long way toward improving the fertility of your soil. As dedicated organic gardeners know, microorganisms go to work on these amendments, converting them into nitrates that can be absorbed by plant roots. And in the process of improving the texture of your soil, these amendments make the natural nutrients of clay soils more readily available to your plants.

It has been demonstrated that most of us feel better when surrounded by green grass and trees, so maintaining a lawn becomes a top priority for many of us. A regimen of proper mowing, watering and fertilizing does not have to be back-breaking. The adage "Work smart, not hard" can well apply to lawn care. To help you find what works best for your particular turf and your particular problems, we suggest you visit Texas A&M's extensive turfgrass website.

Many times we need to depend on nature's controls. Feeding your bird population year round will often help, since birds are a great ally in keeping grasshoppers in check.

A diversity of plant materials in your garden is very important. Monocultures of any grass or shrubs frequently contribute to higher populations of fire ants and grasshoppers.

Adequate moisture is another solution. Grasshoppers lay their eggs in dry, compacted soil, so try to keep trouble areas reasonably moist.

Finally, try not to worry too much about grasshoppers. Accept them as one of life's gardening realities and realize that the levels of infestation will naturally vary from year to year.

Tent caterpillars and other caterpillars often build their tents and webs in the crotches of tree branches or over the tips of tree branches. If you are able to lightly prune or shake the web out of a small tree, do so.

Where it is not practical to remove the web, tear or break the web open to make a doorway for caterpillar-hungry allies to get in. Wasps and other insects eat caterpillars, so if you make an avenue for them, you'll soon find your caterpillars gone.

The healthier your tree is, the fewer caterpillars you will have, so try aerating the soil around the tree after applying a half inch of finished compost on the ground beneath the branches and beyond the drip line.

Remember that trees can withstand a great deal of defoliation. But if the situation seems desperate and you would like to learn about insecticidal sprays that might be helpful, consult the Texas A&M insect control website.

Prune primarily to enable your trees to develop their potential beauty and to preserve their productivity and health. As a rule of thumb, prune to remove dead, diseased or injured wood or to redirect growth, not curb it. (If a young tree seems destined to require constant pruning to keep it in bounds, replace it sooner rather than later.)

For ornamental and shade trees, prune during the mid-winter dormant season if you can, but don't be afraid to prune during other seasons of the year. For fruit and nut trees, limit pruning to the dormant season except to repair damage.

Direct the future growth of young trees by learning to prune strategically (e.g., above an outward-facing bud if you want more horizontal growth). Avoid pruning away lower branches more than one-third up the the tree's height.

When removing an entire branch, prune just outside the "collar" or enlarged area where the branch joins the trunk. Never leave enough of a stub to invite decay. To remove branches from mature trees, proceed with caution. The branches are much heavier than they look, and improper cuts can injure both you and the tree. If you have any doubts about your ability to handle the job, consult a certified arborist.

Get details here on the Master Gardener program.